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0 In travel

salt and sand: a tobago beach day

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I wouldn’t call myself a beach bunny, and I can be picky about where I swim, but I do love the sunshine on my (well-protected!) skin, salt in the air, and sand in my hair.  And the beach at Pigeon Point, in Tobago, is one of the the closest to paradise I’ve found on this earth- warm, crystalline waters just stretch as far as the eye can see. It’s serious beach bum inspiration.

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In past years, we’ve taken glass-bottom boats out to the Nylon Pool, a pretty little tide pool on the Buccoo Reef.  But we’ve noted the deterioration of the reef and the destruction of the coral from the crowds over the years, and felt guilty about our contribution to the damage.  Destroying the environment can take some fun out of the experience, so we decided to skip the group tour and just enjoy the beach instead. Absolutely perfect weather, a cooler of Carib and some rum runners perfected that plan.

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One of the best part of our carnival trips is best friend time. It’s a royal pain having your friends a plane flight away, but par for my course. So I’m practically beside myself to have Erin with me for long enough that we actually get over the excitement of being reunited. We have the best time together AND wear the same size…  it’s vacation partner perfection!

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It feels like serious gravy that we love each other’s husbands, too, and that they are good friends as well.  It makes for a very fun group.. on the beach and pretty much everywhere else!

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We rented umbrellas and chairs, and reveled in the fact that there were only a few other families out on the beach that day. Most people go to Tobago to recover after carnival madness, but schedule conflicts dictated a beach pre-party for us instead.  I adored escaping ahead of the crowds, and having places practically to ourselves.

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I also had too much fun disturbing that peace…. like Craig skipping rocks. I hatched an ill-fated water tackle plan, with humorous results.  I imagine it looked like birds flying at a window, but it felt like hitting a warm laughing wall.

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similar bikini, 2, 3,  4 // vintage kimono- similar, in pink, darks, under $30   // sunglasses, lust!  // ear jackets // white nail polish

pigeon point beach tobago girl booty

And y’all know I don’t believe in missing meals. So when a roti shop stop was suggested on the walk back to the house, I was all about the curry goat (plenty pepper, please).  And let’s be real- only seaside in the rural Caribbean is a sandy bikini appropriate restaurant attire.  Viva vacation!

crown-point-roti-shop-pepper-saucecrown point roti shop

LoveRavayna

0 In travel

a trini girl, an island intro

If you’ve met my mom and heard her voice or eaten her cooking, you  can tell she’s a Trini.  Though I’m Trini-born as well, being raised in the US means most people don’t realize that. But if you’ve wondered about my year-round-tan or curves, heard my pepper mouth or the soca music playing, that’s the Trini in me coming out.

We moved to the States when I was three, and  I didn’t return to Trinidad until I was grown.  But now, we make the journey home every few years. Coordinating with our best friends and family members, we plan our Carnival vacation for months in advance, and count down to our two weeks away. Trinidad allows us to relax and rage unlike no other,  share our time between poolside and parties,  and all of the sunshine and soca music anyone could ever want. I’m looking forward to sharing our vacation with y’all, and introducing you to my Trinidad.

piarco international airport weekend costume

We flew United from LAX to Houston, where our best couple friends met us for happy hour, and the next 6 hours to Port of Spain.  With a late-night landing, Customs took forever, but you might as well get on Trini time from the start. We headed to our house to greet family, eat and sleep, and then headed right back to Piarco Airport for the first flight in the morning, the island-hopper over to Tobago for a few days by the sea.

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With our Trini trip in mind, I had gifted Erin this weekender and scored one for myself, too! A ton of my girlfriends have (and love) this bag- with good reason.  It’s carry-on compliant, but expandable, and can hold everything you’d ever need comfortably. Beloved Thread did an amazing job customizing them for us. (That said, I’d be buying us these if I was shopping now.)

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The flight to Tobago is only 35 minutes on a wee little plane.  I’ll honestly say that we spent longer drinking piña coladas in the open-air Tobago airport bar waiting for our rental van than we did in actual transit. After a short drive to our condo, we beelined for the backyard pool- I’d worn my bikini under my romper, so I couldn’t strip and sunscreen fast enough.  Erin and I turned on the soca, and it was promptly poolside playtime, complete with a dance party and braid bar, while the men made a store run. It was vacation time and we were beyond ready to relax and soak in the Trini sunshine.

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weekender (also loving 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6), F21 romper (similar), Target bikini (similar, 2, 3)

tobago in sand real

Our condo was family owned, and the location was perfection. When you can hear the waves from where you stand, it’s no hassle to walk down to the beach for the afternoon.  So when the men returned with supplies,  we packed the cooler and did exactly that.  We had the local beach mostly to our little family…  David and I, our besties Erin and Craig, my mom, my auntie (her sister) Sandy and her husband, my uncle Winnie. We made quite the crew visiting Tobago, and would only grow upon the return to Trini mainland.

tobago crown point apartment orange

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As the sun started to dip, we walked home from the beach. We had a nice little cocktail hour,  cooling off and cleaning up for dinner. We loaded up the party van for a local seafood restaurant- there’s not much on Tobago. We toasted with sangria, and laughed over grilled lobsters, shrimp, fish, and veggies.  We all turned in early that bed that night… we had lots of vacationing up ahead of us!

crown point apartment pool

loveRavayna

0 In food/ travel

new-to-us nola eats 

If we weren’t socializing or exploring New Orleans during our visit, we were in pursuit of delicious eats. I doubt that’s shocking-  y’all know how passionate I am about food, and we needed to make our first visits to some yummy new spots.

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John Besh and Aaron Sanchez’s bromance is behind the aptly-named Johnny Sanchez, a farm-to-table taqueria in the CBD. We headed there for a hair of the dog and brunch before the Saints game, and it was scrumptious. The smoked pork grillades on jalapeno grits were tender and flavorful, ceviche was perfectly balanced, and we had multiple bowls of queso. Ordering every taco on the menu led to the discovery that there are no bad options there, and the bartender was on point as well.

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The St. Roch Market was renovated and opened after we moved away, so I was excited to check it out for lunch. So many eatery options exist in this Marigny food hall, it was hard to narrow it down and order. An adorable cat-puccino from Coast Coffee was good browsing fuel, and I considered sweet Louisiana satsumas from St Roch Forage excellent souvenirs.

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The food didn’t disappoint either! I was so pleased with a bowl of duck gumbo, a scrumptious charcuterie plate, and a gigantic pulled pork sandwich.  The blue crab and persimmon salad from Elysian Seafood was fresh and flavorful, the perfect counterbalance to the richness of the rest of the meal.

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As soon as we booked our flight, I made our reservation at Shaya.  I’m obsessed with Israeli food, and  Alon Shaya is racking in the accolades as he modernizes and honors the foods of our forefathers.  We ordered most of the items on the menu, which was an excellent life choice, and tore through mounds of pillowy steaming pita alongside.

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We got an assortment of delicious dips: a trio of hummus topped with lamb ragu, fried chickpeas, and curried cauliflower,  smoky baba ganoush, lutenitsa, tabouleh,  and ikra, a caviar and shallot spread I simply adore. Ever the  avo toast lover, I had to try Shaya’s version, topped with smoked whitefish and pink peppercorn. The crispy halloumi and falafel were crunchy and light, the  shakshouka spicy and delicious, and the duck matzo ball soup downright incredible.  David practically had to roll me and my best girlfriend Shelly out… such a magnificent meal.

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And I may love a fancy meal, but celeb chefs don’t have anything over decades of friendship.  My friend Mike was one of the first I met at Tulane, and he’s killing it at his restaurant on Freret Street, Liberty Cheesesteaks. It was bustling and it just made me so proud of him, his hard work, and success.

liberty cheesesteaks nola new orleans-3 liberty cheesesteaks nola new orleans pepper tasting liberty cheesesteaks nola new orleans faceNo shocker that all the eats were excellent. I’m not normally a cheez-wiz girl, but it just works with the provolone and steak. Italian subs are my deli go-to, and Mikey is making some killer overstuffed ones, but the personal heat index option is clutch.  With an assortment of locally grown peppers sorted by spiciness, you can turn up the heat perfectly- Padrons are my jam, but I had a taste of all of them!

If you’re headed to New Orleans soon (lucky!), don’t hesitate to try any of these good eats, and make sure and let me know what you think!
loveRavayna

 

0 In travel

honey island swamp tour 

While in New Orleans, we made a point of having a little swamp adventure.  So we crawled out of bed just after sunrise to caffeinate and head out of the city. It was chilly and early, and we were a bit on the struggle bus as we entered Slidell and arrived at Honey Island Swamp Tours.

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We motored off into the swamp, and quickly saw a gorgeous pelican. We stopped to admire it, and it preened for a bit before taking flight.

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We spotted a blue egret as well, but it was more stubborn. I was snapping away [?: loveRavayna], especially all the different camps.  Families have owned these spots in the swamp since the 40’s (Noah’s Ark is the oldest) and have built and rebuilt their camps over the years (and hurricane seasons.) I was intrigued to see how greatly their repair and luxury levels vary.

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David and I’ve been out in the swamp dozens of times, but this was a first for our couple friends. I’d always heard from guides that swamp cypress is special because it manages to live in varying standing water, and sends roots and knuckles up through the the swamp’s surface. I think they’re beautiful, especially draped with Spanish moss.

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We were all excited to spot an alligator! It was so cold that morning that we didn’t expect any to be awake and out, so it was cool to see his beady eyes breaking the surface of the murky water.  He was a big one, too.

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We saw the cutest raccoons, and stopped to watch them frolic.  I could not stop thinking of Meeko and singing ‘Just Around the Riverbend’ like a big dork. I know they are rabies infested and all that jazz, but they are just really stinkin cute up close.

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We also ran into a family of swamp pigs- Papa approached first, and was rather daring, swimming right up to our boat.  We fed him a few treats, and Momma and Baby oreo piglet came along in quick succession.

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We loved getting out into the fresh air and were glad to get up close with so many varieties of Louisiana creatures. I don’t love group tours, but Honey Island did a good job of keeping it personal, and the swamp’s a pretty big place, so we only saw one or two other boats. It was a lovely nature escape… there’s really no place like the Atchafalaya Swamp.

honey island swamp girls

loveRavayna

1 In food/ travel

new orleans eats: old faithfuls

new orleans nola water meter

New Orleans is practically a foodie’s fantasyland. Especially on our busy trips, there are never enough mealtimes to eat all the things I want…. what a first world problem! I sometimes have crazy cravings for distinctly NOLA food experiences, so we made a point of making it back to some long-term loved eateries.

nola new orleans la crepe nanou

We ate fondue and mussels at Le Crepe Nanou on our first date a dozen years ago, and celebrated our engagement there as well. There’s nothing like a glass of rosé and a little French bistro romance, and they consistently bring both to the table, along with delicious food.

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Creole Creamery is just up the block, and I couldn’t help but answer the siren’s call. The darling little boy I made friends with would insist you try the Cookie Monster, creamy vanilla crammed with Oreos and chocolate chip cookies. They mix a whole red velvet cake into their ice cream of the same name, and it is unreasonably good, but they offer a sampler of four mini scoops, and that’s where the party’s at.  Banana cane malt, roasted pistachio, creole cream cheese, brown butter pecan- those are just a few of the yums on offer, but my favorite flavors are seasonal. I devoured my cone of black-and-gold crunch- the French vanilla and chicory ice cream with Oreos and chocolate chips is only available during Saints season.  I’d argue that my artisan ice cream obsession was honed in this old-timey scoop shop… I for sure ate way too much Creole Creamery in college!

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Our apartment was conveniently located in the Garden district, perfectly placed for morning walks  toLa Boulangerie.  It’s been revitalized by Donald Link and his restaurant group since we moved away, so it’s no surprise there were lines for their fantastic French pastries and breads. It wasn’t yet king cake season, but the decadent Paris brest, glossy croissants, and bountiful fruit tarts more than made up for it.

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The Cure really focuses on their mixology- that’s why they make some of the best and most creative drinks in New Orleans. I always suggest some flavors I enjoy to my bartender, and am rewarded with the perfect custom cocktail creation. I can’t be that brave most places, but they nail it every time.

Before heading out for drinks, we had a little take-out dinner party at our house.  We picked up Creole-Italian from Vincent’s, which was a frequent date-night spot in college,  just around the corner from David’s apartment. The corn-and-crab bisque, canneloni,  and Parmesan crusted chicken were all as incredible as I remembered.

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Like every good New Orleans girl, I love me some po-boys. Out near the parish line, Crabby Jack’s makes some of the best in town. Like a blast from the past in the building by the train tracks, the fanciest thing is the display of local art for sale. You order at the counter and serve your own fountain drinks, but who needs fancy service when the food is this good?

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Keeping it classic, my typical poboy order is a half and half of fried gulf oysters and shrimp, dressed with extra hot sauce, but I also have a weakness for the smoked duck. The cochon de lait was juicy and tender and messy and scrumptious, like always. We also got a fried green tomato with shrimp remoulade- old school New Orleans, but for good reason-  the flavors are on point together.

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In all seriousness, I sometimes dream of Middendorf’s thin fried catfish. You might not think fried fish could be that amazing, but that just tells me you’ve never eaten there. They’ve been serving it along the water in Manchac since the 1930’s, and along with a deep, dark, sausage-and-seafood gumbo and a Dixie beer, the goodness feeds my appetite and my soul.

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Growing up, David and his family used to boat across Lake Maurepas and dock out back for supper. it looks much different now- there were major repairs and renovations post-Katrina, but the lake is ever-lovely. We love relaxing out by the water, with a full belly and a fresh beer… even when the mosquitos are out, the bayou is a truly gorgeous place.

lake maurepas middendorfs fuel dock off the freeway

 

loveRavayna

0 In travel

a New Orleans homecoming 

Back before the holidays, we rented a cute little apartment in uptown New Orleans for a long weekend with another couple.  It had been altogether too long since we’d been home, and it was such a good time!

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We packed a million things into our time in New Orleans. We didn’t photograph some parts, but we treasured our time visiting David’s mom, having a sleepover at my bestie Leah’s farm, loving on her family and babies, and  trying to get face time with as many of our long-distance loves as possible.

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Tulane facilitated that- it was homecoming weekend, and there was a surprising amount of our old friends back in town for the weekend. Torrential rains, reminiscent of my first undergrad homecoming, couldn’t hide that fact that Tulane has gotten all gussied up, and the new construction looks amazing.

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It was my best friend Maille’s birthday that weekend, so I blew her mind a bit by surprising her on her doorstep- I’m a pretty good present, if I do say so myself. I third-wheeled her birthday dinner with her darling boyfriend at Saffron, and we made time for both a low key girls’ night and a super fun house party celebrating the beautiful birthday girl.

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We couldn’t go home for the weekend and not get tickets to the Saints game…. the last home game we attended was the day after our wedding! We lost in overtime to the Tennessee Titans and it was agonizing, not gonna lie. But I bleed black and gold, regardless.

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Post game, we walked down the familiar streets to the Boot, to honor one of my oldest friends at our old on-campus bar.  I met Brian McKenna the first week of college, and we shared a birthday and core group of friends- he’s always been one of the good guys.  Last summer, a mountain biking accident rendered him a quadriplegic, but in typical Brian style, he’s recovering astonishingly- with incredible spirits and the encouragement of people like Drew Brees and Ellen Degeneres. It was good to visit with lots old friends while raising funds for Brian’s care and recovery … he’s so often in my thoughts.

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And no trip to New Orleans is complete without visiting The Columns.  We went for cocktails with friends, but I always get all misty on the steps where we got married.

 

“I returned to New Orleans, and as soon as I smelled the air, I knew I was home. It was rich, almost sweet, like the scent of jasmine and roses around our old courtyard. I walked the streets, savoring that long lost perfume.”

― Anne Rice, Interview with the Vampire

 
loveRavayna

 

2 In travel

a girlfriends getaway in santa fe

Old friends and New Mexico were a most perfect combination.

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In the time since Tulane, my best girlfriends and I have grown into our lives- with careers, a few husbands, and busy lives in cities like Denver and DC. But those busy lives get in the way, visits tend to focus on brides and babies, and are always too short.  So after literally a thousand emails trying to get it scheduled, we planned a girlfriends trip in honor of our thirtieth birthdays and reunited in Santa Fe, a dozen years after we moved into our freshman dorms.

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We rented a roomy adobe casa on the outskirts of Santa Fe and it was beyond perfect.  It had plenty of room, including a small sauna, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, a fire pit, and even complimentary parking when in downtown Santa Fe.

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There’s nothing like steaming hot bath to kickstart your morning, and obscenely beautiful nature all around just takes it to another level.  It was simply gorgeous, especially through the viewing window cut in the surrounding fencing.

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Y’all know I’m not outdoorsy, but I try. So I was excited when we piled into our rental minivan and headed out to the Santa Fe National Forest.  It was a gorgeous hike, and we explored for several hours before the altitude started to be a bit much for a few of us.

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We drove into downtown Santa Fe to scope out the shopping. We were a bunch of girlfriends on vacation, after all.

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There were dozens of silver artisans lined up in the Plaza. The city council actually authenticates the native heritage of the seller and his or her goods as handmade before issuing the sales licenses.  I’m passionate about shopping directly from artisans, so I totally over-justified my purchases. But I’ve worn the copper ring and hammered silver hoop earrings multiple times, and I’m always a shameless sucker for local spices and cooking ingredients.  The smoked chile amarillo is my favorite.

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We quickly realized that there were dozens of extra stands set up, along with live music, and that we had walked into an arts festival. We inspected the offerings, discovering some truly incredible workmanship. I fell in love with a handmade moonstone necklace, and purchased it after some price negotiations.

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Girls night out is way more fun when it’s with your lifers. That night, we had an incredible dinner at Maria’s (I promise, you will not regret getting both red and green chile on your enchiladas) and multitudes of margaritas, before hopping into Ubers in search of dancing.  The Santa Fe bar scene was a bit quiet for our liking, but we still made plenty of fun.

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The next morning, brunch was a necessity, and the Plaza Cafe was incredible. I promptly became obsessed with spicy Mexican mochas, and every bite on the table was delicious.  I demolished  both green chile huevos rancheros and a blue corn-piñon pancake.  We stopped by the bustling farmers market on our way out, scoring some goodies to go and ingredients for supper.

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We got some more fresh air post-brunch,  climbing 91 steps to an oasis in the mountains. Spending a few hours in the relaxing haven of Ten Thousand Waves was the perfect indulgence.

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We rented the Waterfall private suite, with a huge hot springs bath, a cold plunge pool, and a sauna- we enjoyed the extra room and the privacy. I’d brought an assortment of sheet masks, so we masked and floated and talked and relaxed. After our rental time had elapsed, we spent some time at the ladies spa, meditation areas, and footbaths.   I was disappointed not to be able to purchase the music from the meditation room- it was just engaging enough to keep my mind from wandering but still totally relaxing. I also got a tour of the (surprisingly tidy) underbelly of the spa when I accidentally tossed swimsuits down the laundry chute and accompanied the hostess to relieve them. We were all a little rubber – limbed as we climbed back down the stairs to the parking lot.

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A little arts appreciation was next on the agenda, as we visited the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

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The space was really well curated, beautifully designed and petite enough as to not overwhelm. I especially appreciated the info about her personal history alongside her works, and the museum shop was fabulous.

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Returning to the house, we were just in time for happy hour. We threw together a fruit and cheese plate, Moscow mules and Kalimoxtos, and gathered on the rooftop patio to watch the sun set.

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Once it was dark, we headed inside to make dinner. Dessert was my contribution to the meal, and I used chai spices in the crumble topping for farmer’s market Jonagold and Granny Smith apples and raspberries.  It was delish, and more of the same cold for breakfast the next morning.

We had grand plans of board games, but instead we made s’mores, stargazed, and drank wine around the fire till we were yawning.

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The next morning, I set an early alarm to watch the sun rise. Most of the girls woke up with me, and the candy-colored sky was totally worth the lost sleep. Then we piled all into one bed, to chat and cuddle while we still could. Because much too soon it was time for suitcase packing and the first round of departures.

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We stopped for lunch at The Pantry on our way out of town. My carne adovada was tender and flavorful, and I couldn’t resist one last side of green chile. I seriously love that stuff.

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Leaving my girlfriends after such a lovely time in Santa Fe was sad, but the full heart and full belly helped. It’s like Baz Lurhmann said, in that high school era chart topper,

“Understand that friends come and go, but a precious few, who should hold on. Work hard to bridge the gaps in geography and lifestyle, for as the older you get, the more you need the people you knew when you were young.”

How lucky I am to have these girlfriends in my life, and to have shared this trip with them.

 

loveRavayna

0 In style/ travel

WiW: vacation capsule wardrobe

Choosing what to pack and wear in Paris and Barcelona was a daunting task. Visiting such epic style capitals, I wanted to look pulled together, but realistically needed a wardrobe that would be comfortable for long days, crazy amounts of walking, and temperatures ranging from 38-86′.  Though I checked a bag,  I kept it light/ left room for souvenirs. David almost always carries my bags when we travel together (especially up four flights of spiral stairs),  but on principle, I don’t travel with more than I can manage myself.

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I wanted to pack a capsule of clothes that intermixed well, layered effectively for warmth, was versatile to accommodate our unplanned time, and felt equally chic and comfortable. A reformed overpacker, I really tried to streamline for this trip- and I succeeded, because 6 pair of shoes for more than two weeks is a major accomplishment for Imelda right here.

 

Here’s what I packed:BPflatlays-sweaters

Gap sweater, Asos sweater (similar), Target cardigan (similar), H&M jeweled sweater (similar)

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Old Navy chambray, lipstick print blouse, SheIn buffalo plaid flannel [size up!], Topshop scalloped shell. Old Navy black and red-striped long-sleeved shirts, black and grey tees.  James Perse white, Petit Bateau striped, Zara yellow teeshirts

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Kenley Collins for Unique Vintage skirt , homemade tulle tutu skirt (similar), American Eagle floral skirt (similar). Hue leggings, Old Navy midrise Rockstars, JBrand coated skinnies

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Forever 21 maxi (similar), Asos silk dress (similar), Kate Spade Saturday striped (similar), H&M lace (similar) dresses

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Tulle coat via Hautelook (similar),  SheIn cape, sole society scarf, kate spade purses

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Converse, Victoria’s Secret heels (similar), grey and black booties, similar gold sandals, similar metallic tennies.

 

And here’s how I wore it…

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… for a chilly morning flea marketing in Vanves, soaking in the sunshine between museums,  accessorized with pearls and sheer glee at being in Paris.

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… topped with one of David’s shirts (capsule wardrobe freebie!) to shop, all fancified for date night at Tickets, graphic pops of red for exploring and simply layered for a morning of outdoor art.

 

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… with a little sparkle for dinner in Montmartre, windblown and undone by the water, hiding bike shorts underneath stripes {RIP Kate Spade Saturday}, and florals to flirt shamelessly with my sweet husband.

 

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bundled up in black but always with a bright lip, keeping it super-simple for supper, layering my favorite basics for a look that’s anything but, stacking texture and patterns in claret and cream.

…and mixed and remixed lots of other ways. You can use the sidebar tags [off to the right] for Paris and Barcelona to see what I wore where.  If you are packing for a long or varied trip, I hope this helpful. My best advice is to bring half of what you want, culling the duplicates. You’ll always have room in your bag for new purchases should you find the need to shop!

 

This was such an amazing trip, and reminiscing over it as I blogged has been so lovely. I’m dying to go back already, but we have lots of upcoming travel planned and a few weekend getaways to share….
loveRavayna

1 In travel

Eurocoes: loves, lists, and logistics

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Our Europe trip was my first experience with international train travel, and I loved it! Having preordered our TGV tickets, it was fabulous not to check in hours before departure, to pass through gorgeous countryside, and to arrive and depart in city centers rather than the outskirts of town.

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En route to Paris, we’d planned for train time happy hour, so we had cava and incredible Spanish snacks for our moving movie date. I cheesily insisted on Amèlie, but David drew the line at Moulin Rouge. On the return trip to Barcelona, we breakfasted on pastries and the best of our remaining French fridge contents – blood orange mimosas for the win! Our car was mostly empty, so we stretched out and slept, since we’d left the Marais for Gare de Lyon before sunrise, and had a bonus half-day in Barcelona ahead  before our latenight flight.

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We stashed our suitcases in lockers at Sants and then hopped straight onto the metro for a last lap of our Barcelona favorites. We hit a few shops before Can Paixano, and it was so jam-packed that we took our wine and meal to the Parc de la Ciutadella. It was lovely to have a leisurely lunch, to sit and soak in the Spanish sunshine on our last afternoon of vacation. We took a last long walk around the city, before returning to La Boqueria for one more fabulous dinner (and plane snacks, obvi). Bellies full, we fetched our bags at the train station and were bound for the airport.

You may recall that I found an incredible deal on plane tickets. Real talk- they were such a steal because the timing and flight patterns were far from fantastic, including a midnight BCN departure and connections through Moscow. For the geographically unfamiliar, Russia is well past mainland Europe and connecting there’s a total timewaster.  But half price was worth the few hours, so off to kill time in the rather underdeveloped Moscow airport we went. Side note: I actually wanted a much longer layover and to explore Moscow, but the single day visas for Americans were SO prohibitively expensive, we couldn’t justify many hundred dollars for the one day. 

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Vending machines of Putin teeshirts were just one of many amusing things we encountered during our airport explorations. People-watching and snack and souvenir shopping were both quality entertainment. The eateries were pretty spare, with some businesses closed and others renovating, so frozen yogurt and Burger King (for the first time in decades- it was freshly made and honestly better than we remembered) were our snack pack reinforcements.

On our return leg, we had a gorgeous sunrise landing into a 5 hour layover at SVO. We promptly checked into the V Express capsule hotel in Terminal E. There, the princely sum of about $50 afforded us a ‘business triple,’ a simple, super clean, cruiseship-reminiscent room and private bathroom. We put our feet up, snacked and stretched, then passed out for a good long nap. We woke to shower, then checked out and boarded our flight back to LA. It was a really convenient stopgap, even though I used up all the hot water on David… oopsie.

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Speaking of rest, it was nearly midnight by the time we had cleared customs upon arrival in Barcelona, so we spent just that first night at an Ibis hotel. We just wanted inexpensive, clean, comfy,and central, and it was nice to get a good sleep and shower before checking into our apartment and getting acquainted with the city. We rented both our apartments from Airbnb, as we tend to do. Our Barcelona flat was phenomenal: huge, beautifully kept and very professionally managed- a few blown lightbulbs were replaced within hours. Our Paris apartment, not so much. We expected it to be petite, with a fourth floor walk up, and a big window overlooking the lively street.  We didn’t expect it to be dim,  a bit grim, and filled to the brim with the owner’s belongings (David lived out of his open suitcase, I cleaned off a few bookshelves to unpack into), the shower drain to be clogged, or the owner to be generally unconcerned with responding to us or water damage in his bathroom.  But c’est la vie- it was rather inexpensive and we loved its location in the heart of the Marais.

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And, because I love some listmaking, a 5×4 on our time in Europe.

 

Memory Makers

  1. That first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. David was navigating as we walked around on our first night, and I spotted it as we rounded a corner. If it’s possible to both squeal and lose your breath at the same time, that’s what I did.
  2. The tasting menu at Tickets. Worth every Euro- David and I agree that it was one of the best meals we’ve ever eaten, with spectacular styling and service. And meeting Ferran Adria in the flesh was such an amazing coincidence- beyond my wildest imagination.
  3. Our morning with Lisa. Paris was incredibly romantic, and it shines through in those images.  Our vacation there was such a dream-come-true for me,  and it’s just so special to have it captured in a way that’s beautiful, but authentic.
  4. Admiring amazing artwork and architecture while hand-in-hand with my husband. He’s such a great partner in the craziness that is life, so it’s especially nice to take our time and just relax and enjoy, to let the experience wash over us.
  5. Embodying Madeline. I grew up devouring books about ‘twelve little girls in two straight lines,’ and my blue wool coat struck a familiar note. It’s more than a little dorky, but I loved dressing for breakfast one morning with the residents of a vine-covered Parisian boarding school as my inspiration. madeleine-2

 

 Merdé moments

  1. Dropping my iPhone and cracking the screen getting out of our Uber at LAX. Replacement screens were slow and spendy in both cities, according to our inquiries, so I just tolerated it, taped the spreading cracks along the trip, and got it fixed back in the States.
  2. Realizing upon our arrival in Barcelona that Googlemaps is not properly enabled in Spain, and that I wouldn’t be able to access the annotated, color-coordinated, fully mapped out trip agenda I’d worked so hard on. I melted down- it had been a very long travel day.
  3. Crossing the street one afternoon in les Halles, when I locked eyes with a homeless man.  Unfortunately,  it was as he was relieving  (and fully exposing) himself in the middle of the crosswalk! The policeman standing on on the corner was very unconcerned when I informed him, to David’s amusement- I was more than a little shocked and grossed out!
  4. We only took cabs to and from the airport, relying on metro and our legs the rest of the time. I used the Taxi G7 to reserve our cab to Gare de Lyon, but didn’t get a confirmation, so I refreshed it. David was greeted with quite the sight when he took our bags down that morning: two cabbies arguing loudly over who deserved our fare. We got dinged with a couple Euro fee- for technically canceling the second car, but it was quickly and easily resolved.
  5. Chatelet. The metro station was under construction, and it took forever and a day (at least 20 minutes) to navigate transfers through and was just a timesuck. I may have had a hangry tantrum there while David laughed in my face, and took mortifying pictures.paris-chatelet-metro-station

Regretfully missed- saved for our return to Europe

  1. Versailles. With so much to do in Paris, I couldn’t bear to allot the day to make the trip out. But I drool over ornate Baroque styling, and cannot wait to see all of that gorgeous gold-and-garden goodness with my own two eyes.
  2. Country time. On the whole, I would have loved a few more days for making day trips and visiting the countryside. I’d adore a day in Monet’s gardens at Giverny (the Orangerie was practically a religious experience) or tasting Champagne at the caves in Reims. We also talked about spending a night or two in the South of France or at the Spanish seaside, but couldn’t be away any longer.
  3. An immersive foodie experience. Ideally, it would be David Lebovitz’s gastronomy tour, but I’d be happy with an intensive pastry course, truffle-hunting in the hills, or another indulgent learning experience along those lines.
  4. Cooking, in general. The Boqueria is the most amazing market, and the marches in Paris weren’t shabby either, overflowing with scrumptious and well-priced raw materials. We had kitchen access, but had too many yummies on the list to eat out to do much cooking at home. I can’t wait to make my groceries there, and the delicious meals that will result!
  5. Sport. We made serious effort to attend a live sporting event while in Europe, but it just didn’t work out. We couldn’t find a pair of decently priced seats for the FC Barcelona home game. So we bought great seats to a Paris Saint-Germain home game. Shortly before our trip, they qualified for the European League championships and our game got postponed until after we returned to the States. It was so unlucky!

 

And once more, with feeling

  1. I’d get on a plane tommorow just for the repeat eats. My mouth waters thinking of mango-passionfruit caramels from Jacques Genin, flaky laminated pastries, fresh-caught uni, Cava Rosado, and authentic Jamon Iberico. Gimme.
  2. We’ll definitely invest in the Paris Museum Pass again. Cutting the lines was glorious, and it is such an good value if you are visiting several museums or monuments.  We especially loved the freedom to see as much or as little of as many places as we wished.
  3. I’m going to up my shopping game big time, and save my pennies in advance. Knowing all the goodies that exist, I’m reminiscing over antique linens and furniture and lusting after shoes handmade of Spanish leather, authentic vintage couture (maybe another Chanel purse?) and burnished copper cookware. And I’ll certainly have a long list of beauty products to buy and replenish.
  4. We’re going to keep star collecting. We love good food at all price points, but made a point of eating a Michelin-starred meal on this trip, and adored the experience.  I’d love to visit other restaurants of that caliber, and collect as many stars in Europe as budget allows.
  5. I’ve mentioned before that we don’t love most tourist attractions, and prefer to try and live like locals. But sometimes it’s the tourist traps that are fun. I love striking the balance between mainstream and offbeat, so we’ll always feel free to skip any attraction that doesn’t genuinely excite one of us,  and build in extra time to wander aimlessly and explore freely. And people watch. That’s a must.

 

 

loveRavayna

 

0 In travel

paris, by water

After our morning shoot, we headed back to the Marais, grabbing macarons on the way but intent on a good midday nap. When we woke, we grabbed some lunch (including the best couscous I’ve ever had) at the nearby Marche des Enfants Rouges. Fueled and fed, we had one afternoon left to enjoy Paris.

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We decided to spend it in true Parisian fashion, so we did a little walking and shopping, and then  headed into the 10th to explore along the canals, skip some pebbles Ameliè-style, and enjoy the beautiful day.

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Some of my favorite parts of any trip are the time we spend surrounded by locals rather than tourists. It was really lovely to just sit among them canalside, and drinking wine alfresco in the middle of the day always feels so very luxurious. I was a little sulky thinking about our impending departure, but after such a wonderful whirlwind, I just wanted to stay in Paris forever.

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Based on tripadvisor reviews, we had purchased tickets to cruise the Seine with Vedettes du Pont Neuf so we made our way to the dock, onto the boat, and were sailing merrily along in no time.

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The tour was perfectly fine- the boat was very well kept, and the guide was knowledgeable, but we’ll skip this the next time we visit Paris.  Perhaps it’s because we were already acquainted with most of the highlighted sights, or that we aren’t fond of the cattle-herd feel of group tours, but we pretty much just went in a little loop.  Other than taking a few pictures, which is way more David’s jam (obviously) than mine, it was a bit boring.  musee-d'orsay-from-seine paris-bridge-sculpture-seine

It was nice to see things from another perspective, though. And our feet certainly appreciated the respite- according to David’s Fitbit, we had walked just over a hundred miles across Barcelona and Paris in the preceding weeks.

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It was nearing dinnertime when we disembarked, so we walked through the Ile de la Cite towards the sidewalk bistro table that awaited us. For my final Parisian meal, I specifically wanted a platter of French cheeses. Astier was another stellar recommendation from David Leibovitz, and I charmed the darling maitre’d into bringing the cheese platter for my appetizer rather than dessert. It was a vision of epic beauty.

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So I promptly and gleefully demolished the vast majority of it. Seriously, I had room left for just a few bites of our flatiron steak and kidneys- I was fat and happy and full of cheese! We lingered past dusk, chatting with servers as they lit candles on our tabletop.

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We took dessert home to our little flat, where we drank wine, packed, and prepped for the early morning TGV back to Barcelona and our return to the States that night.

loveRavayna

 

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